Stove Repair Spartanburg, SC | Local Stove Service

If one burner will not light, a gas stove keeps clicking, an electric burner stays cold or the flame looks wrong, here is what may be behind it and what to do next.

“Stove” gets used loosely. On this site, stove repair means the surface-burner side of a range. Oven-cavity heating belongs on Oven Repair, and a separate built-in cooktop belongs on Cooktop Repair.

A symptom is a starting point, not a verdict. Only testing the actual appliance can confirm which part is at fault.

Is Your Problem a Stove, Oven or Cooktop Issue?

Your situation	Best page
A burner on top of my range will not light or heat	Stove Repair
The oven itself will not heat, or bakes badly	Oven Repair
I have a separate built-in cooktop set into the counter	Cooktop Repair
Both the burners and the oven are dead	Start here, then see Oven Repair; a shared power problem is possible
I smell gas	Go straight to the gas-odor steps below

A range has burners on top and an oven below in one body, and it sits on the floor or slides between cabinets. A cooktop is a surface unit installed in a countertop cutout with no oven attached. The stove side and the oven side share a body and often a power supply, but they have separate heating parts and controls.

Burner Symptom Table: What Might Be Going On?

What you notice	Systems that may be involved	Useful questions
Gas burner clicks but does not light	Spark igniter, burner cap position, burner ports, moisture, gas supply	Is the cap seated? Are the ports clean and dry?
Gas stove keeps clicking	Spark module, ignition switch, food or moisture near the igniter	Does clicking continue after the flame is on? One burner or all?
One gas burner will not light, others do	Burner assembly, spark igniter, blocked ports, that burner’s switch	Does it click at all?
No burners light and no clicking	Power supply, spark module, breaker, gas supply	Does the clock or oven work? Was there an outage?
Uneven or yellow flame	Blocked ports, misplaced cap, dirty assembly, air-to-gas mix	Is one side weaker? Any recent spill or cleaning?
Electric coil burner not heating	Coil element, receptacle connection, infinite switch	Does the coil glow at all?
Electric smooth-top burner not heating	Radiant element, selector switch, surface control, thermal limiter	Does the indicator light come on? Only one zone?
Burner stays on high or will not turn off	Infinite switch, selector switch, surface control	Does it respond to the knob at all?
Sparks or burning smell from controls	Wiring, switch, spark module	Stop using the stove and switch off the breaker

Why Is My Stove Burner Not Working?

In short: A burner that does nothing has lost its fuel or power, lost its heat source or igniter, or is not receiving the signal from its control.

The most useful first question is how many burners are affected.

One burner: The issue is probably specific to that burner: its cap, ports, igniter or element, or the switch feeding it.
Several burners: Look at what they share, such as the spark module, the power supply or a common control.
All burners plus the oven: The appliance may not be getting power, so check the breaker first.

Safe checks: make sure the burner cap and head are seated (gas), look for boiled-over food or dampness, check the breaker on an electric stove with no power, and note whether other burners work normally. If nothing obvious turns up, Palmetto Crest Appliance Repair can take it from there with testing.

Why Does a Gas Burner Click but Not Ignite?

In short: Clicking means the ignition system is trying to spark. If gas does not light, the cause could be a dirty or misplaced burner part, moisture, a weak spark or a gas-flow issue. Clicking alone does not say which.

A gas burner lights in four steps: the knob triggers the ignition switch, the switch signals the spark module, the module sends high voltage to the spark igniter beside the burner, and gas flowing through the burner ports catches the spark. If any step falters, you may hear clicking with no flame.

Possible area	What it might look like
Burner cap not seated	Uneven flame or no lighting on that burner
Blocked burner ports	Partial lighting, flames only on one side
Wet or dirty igniter	Clicking with a weak spark or none
Worn or damaged spark igniter	No visible spark at one burner
Gas supply to the stove	No flame on any burner

For a full walkthrough of this one symptom, read the Gas Burner Clicks but Won’t Light Guide.

Gas flowing without a flame

If gas is flowing without a flame, turn the knob off and let the area air out. Do not keep trying to light it repeatedly.

Why Does My Gas Stove Keep Clicking?

In short: Continuous clicking usually means the spark system thinks a burner is not lit or is getting a stray signal. Moisture, food debris, a burner part out of place, the spark module or the ignition switch may be involved.

After cleaning or a spill: Moisture or debris around the igniter can cause constant sparking.
One burner clicking on its own: Often points at that burner’s switch or igniter area.
All burners clicking at once: May involve the spark module.
Clicking that never stops, even with the stove off: Switch off the stove’s breaker if it is safe to do so, and have it inspected.

To try first: turn all knobs off, lift and dry the burner caps and heads, reseat each cap firmly, and let everything dry fully before testing again. Wipe visible debris from igniters with a slightly damp cloth once burners are off and cool, and never use sharp objects.

What Should You Do If You Smell Gas Near a Stove?

This is the most important section on the page.

What to do if you smell gas

Do not turn on lights, switches or appliances, and do not use a lighter or match.
Get everyone, including pets, outside.
Contact your gas utility or emergency services from outside or a safe distance.
Do not go back in until you are told it is safe.
Have the stove inspected before using it again.

Never tighten, repair or replace gas fittings, hoses or valves yourself, keep relighting a burner that is not catching, or leave a burner on to warm the room. We do not give DIY gas-line instructions. If gas safety is in doubt, treat it as a safety issue first and an appliance issue second.

When Is a Gas-Stove Symptom a Safety Concern?

Symptom	Treat as
Strong or persistent gas smell	Emergency: follow the steps above
Flame that is very tall, yellow, orange or sooty	Stop using the burner and have it checked
Burner that will not turn off	Stop using the stove and shut off power or gas if it is safe to do so
Clicking that will not stop	Turn off power and get it inspected
Burner that lights late or with a puff	Do not keep using it; have it checked
Dirty burner ports	Safe cleaning, see below

A healthy gas flame is generally blue. Persistent yellow or orange flames can indicate blocked ports, a misplaced cap or a problem with the air-to-gas mix, and sooty flames can produce unwanted byproducts.

Why Is a Burner Flame Uneven?

In short: Uneven flames are often traced to blocked burner ports or a cap that is not seated, but the burner assembly or gas supply can also be involved.

A healthy burner shows a fairly even ring of flame. Warning signs are gaps in the ring, one side taller than the other, flames lifting away from the burner, yellow tips, and popping or hissing.

Cause category	How it may appear
Blocked burner ports	Gaps or short flames where ports are clogged
Burner cap sitting crooked	Lopsided flame
Wet burner	Sputtering until it dries
Damaged burner head	Distorted flame that cleaning does not fix
Gas supply or regulator issue	Weak or oversized flames across all burners

How can blocked ports be cleaned safely?

Turn every burner off and let the stove cool completely.
Lift off the caps and heads, and wash them with warm soapy water and a soft brush.
Clear the small ports with a soft bristle, not a metal pin that could enlarge them.
Let everything dry fully, ideally for many hours, then reseat the caps level.

Do not spray liquid into the igniter or valve area, touch or bend the spark igniter, force stuck parts, or try to adjust gas flow. If the problem remains after careful cleaning and drying, testing is the next step.

Why Is One Electric Burner Not Heating?

In short: When only one electric burner fails, the cause is usually specific to that burner or its control, which helps narrow things down.

Type	What it is	Where problems may occur
Coil element	Exposed coil that plugs into a receptacle	Coil, receptacle, terminals, infinite switch
Radiant element	Heating ribbon under a smooth glass-ceramic top	Radiant element, thermal limiter, selector switch, surface control

Coil stoves: With the stove off and cool, a plug-in coil can be swapped with a matching coil from another burner to see whether the problem follows the coil. That is a diagnostic idea, not a fix for burned terminals or a damaged receptacle.
Smooth-top stoves: Check whether the indicator light comes on, and note any warning lights or messages.
Dark or burnt spots at connections: Stop using the burner and do not keep testing.
Works only on high: May relate to the switch controlling heat levels.

Electric surface heating follows one path: power reaches the stove, the infinite switch, selector switch or electronic surface control sends a measured amount of power, and the surface element heats. Because one power supply feeds several burners and often the oven, a total loss of heat usually points away from a single burner part.

Could the Problem Be the Surface Control Instead of the Burner?

In short: Yes. Sometimes the burner is fine and the switch or control feeding it is the problem.

Clues include a knob that feels loose or gritty, a burner that works only at certain settings or stays on when the knob is off, heat that does not match the knob position, several burners misbehaving in similar ways, or an error on the display.

Observation	Where it may point
Burner dead, coil works in another spot	Infinite switch or wiring
Burner works only on high	Switch or control
Gas burner clicks regardless of knob position	Ignition switch
All gas burners click together	Spark module
Display errors	Surface control board

Do not open the control panel or pull wiring yourself.

What Is Different About Gas and Electric Stove Problems?

	Gas stove	Electric stove
Heat source	Gas flame at a burner	Coil or radiant element
Ignition	Spark igniter and spark module	None; heat is electrical
Typical no-heat areas	Ignition, blocked ports, gas supply, cap position	Element, switch, receptacle, power
Cleaning-related issues	Blocked ports, wet igniters	Spillover on smooth tops, dirty terminals
Main safety concern	Gas odor and uncontrolled flame	Burning smell, scorching, exposed heating parts
DIY limit	Never touch gas lines or valves	Never touch live wiring or open panels

Whether it is gas stove repair or electric stove repair, the diagnostic logic is the same: confirm supply, confirm the heat source, confirm the control.

Which Stove Components May Need Inspection?

Gas side: burner cap, burner ports, burner assembly, spark igniter, spark module, ignition switch
Electric side: coil element, radiant element, infinite switch, selector switch, surface control
Shared: power supply and the household circuit feeding the stove

A technician tests the suspected system rather than replacing parts by trial and error.

How Do You Prepare for a Stove Repair Visit?

Brand, model and serial number (often in the oven door frame, a drawer or on the back)
Gas or electric; coil or smooth top; sealed or open burners
Freestanding, slide-in or a built-in cooktop, so it goes to the right page
Which burners are affected, and whether they click, glow, light or do nothing
A photo of the flame or burner, if possible
When it began and what happened before, such as a spill, cleaning or power outage
Whether the oven still works
Top cleared and space open in front of the stove
Any gas smell, burning smell or tripped breaker noted, and children and pets kept away

See the Service Process page for a general overview of how a visit works.

What Should You Avoid Doing?

What to avoid

Do not repeatedly try to light a burner that is not catching
Do not use the oven to heat the room
Do not pry at igniters or burner assemblies
Do not soak the control area or spray cleaner into ignition parts
Do not keep using a burner with scorching, sparking or melted parts
Do not assume one symptom identifies the failed part

Everyday habits also matter. Wipe up boil-overs promptly, let parts dry fully after cleaning, and reseat burner caps after every clean, since a crooked cap changes the flame and can prevent lighting.

Should You Repair or Replace a Stove With Repeated Burner Problems?

In short: A single burner problem is often worth repairing. Repeated failures, a very old range or safety-related damage may make replacement worth considering.

Factor	Points toward repair	Points toward considering replacement
Burners affected	One	Several, with more failing over time
Age	Moderate	Very old, with parts becoming harder to find
Cause	A specific part is identified	Widespread wear or damage
Safety	Understood and fixable	Ongoing gas or electrical concerns
Overall condition	Oven and surface otherwise sound	Oven also failing, cracked top or rusted body

Read Repair or Replace for a wider look. Palmetto Crest Appliance Repair can explain what a diagnosis found so you can weigh cost against the stove’s remaining life.

Where Does Palmetto Crest Appliance Repair Serve?

Palmetto Crest Appliance Repair provides stove repair in Spartanburg, SC as its primary market, with nearby communities listed on the Service Areas page. Service for a specific address is confirmed when you make an enquiry.

Frequently Asked Questions About Stove Repair

Why does only one burner on my gas stove not light?

When the other burners light, the issue is likely specific to that burner: cap position, blocked ports, moisture, the igniter or its switch. Testing is needed to say which.

Is it normal for a gas stove to click for a moment before lighting?

Yes. A short burst of clicking while the burner lights is normal. Clicking that continues after the flame is on, or starts by itself, deserves a closer look.

Can I light my gas burner with a match if the igniter fails?

Some owner’s manuals describe a safe method for specific models. Follow your manual only, use no flame if there is any gas smell, and never keep trying if the burner does not catch.

Why is my electric burner only warm and not hot?

A weak burner can involve the element, its connections, the switch or the control. Burnt-looking terminals should be inspected rather than tested further.

Why is my gas flame yellow instead of blue?

Blocked ports, a misplaced cap or the air-to-gas mix can cause it. If it persists after careful cleaning and drying, stop using that burner and have it checked.

Is stove repair the same as oven repair?

No. Stove repair covers surface burners and their controls. Oven-cavity heating, temperature and door concerns belong to Oven Repair.

I have a built-in cooktop. Does stove repair cover it?

The symptoms often look similar, but built-in cooktops are covered on Cooktop Repair.

What information should I have ready when I contact you?

Brand, model number, gas or electric, which burner is affected, what it does, when it started and what happened beforehand. Photos of the flame or burner help.

Stove Repair in Spartanburg, SC